Nights in La Paz
Bolivia

Nights in La Paz

Sprawling across the Bolivian altiplano at between 3 200 and 4 100 metres above sea level, La Paz is an incredible city. Incredibly difficult to walk through: the altitude makes the air thin and the steep hills add huffs and puffs to every excursion; after three weeks in the city climbing stairs were still an … Continue reading

Walking Titicaca
Bolivia

Walking Titicaca

That El Choro post was weak and rushed. It’s not that I’ve been battling writer’s block per se, more a case of lucking out with the universe’s greatest travelling companion (Mark from the UK) and so I’ve been filling my days with far better things than writing (ha!) since we hit the road together in … Continue reading

The other Amazon
Bolivia

The other Amazon

What Bolivia offers in terms of natural diversity – desert, salt flats, highest-altitude cities, fresh lower-land days – is captivating in much the same way that South Africa is. But the hard to pronounce Rurrenabaque is whole new bag of tricks. Despite of how much I had seen of the country, I still found it … Continue reading

Time is relative
Bolivia / In transit

Time is relative

Flipped a coin at the terminal in Santa Cruz and settled on Trinidad, not entirely sure what I would do there but confident that it was at least halfway to Rurrenabaque, the gateway to the Bolivian Amazon. Bus terminals are not the prettiest parts of any town, but this one’s chaos was particularly oppressive. I’m … Continue reading

Ginger’s Paradise
Bolivia

Ginger’s Paradise

When you first meet Christobal, proprietor of Ginger’s Paradise, you’d be forgiven for believing that this riverside organic farm and refugio, cradled by pristine Bolivian cloud forest that clings to the mountain, was named after him. His faded red hair is a magpie’s nest of old dreadlocks and new growth; he wears a dirty white … Continue reading